As we wandered around Castro Street, we caught sight of a striking statue, stopping us in our tracks. When we looked closer, we saw a mesmerizing sculpture of hand-pulled noodles, suspended in mid-air by a pair of chopsticks and seemingly defying gravity. Intrigued, we stepped inside the restaurant and were immediately enveloped by the warm, savory aroma of freshly made noodles and soup. A large window offered a glimpse into the kitchen, where powerful chefs skillfully swung and stretched the dough, transforming it into the delicate strands of noodles typical of northwestern China. Furthermore, along with each noodle dish came the opportunity to select our specific noodle of choice: medium round, small flat, large flat, belt flat, or small round.
Founder David Liu learned the art of hand-pulled noodles in Lanzhou, China before opening a shop there in 2012. He wanted to bring the specialty to Northern California and opened the first Lanzhou Hand Pulled Noodles (then called Zhongua) in Milpitas in 2017. The addition of a location on Castro opened in mid-December of last year.
While awaiting our meals, which arrived quickly and sizzling, our ears were met with the soft sound of Mandarin ballads alternating with modern pop songs. Our table was both clean and neat, adorned with chili oil and vinegar, ready for our arrival. We ordered popcorn chicken, stewed pork rib noodles, vegetable fried noodles, and fried sesame balls.
Popcorn chicken (6.67/10)
Popcorn chicken had its beginnings in Taiwan’s street food scene, known as yan su ji or “Taiwanese fried chicken.” It was then popularized in US markets during the earlier 1990s, by Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC). Now, it is a beloved shareable snack—both in its birthplace in Taiwan, as well as in the US and worldwide.
We were served a plate full of lightly breaded popcorn chicken bites. The outside was lightly fried, while the inside was chewier and somewhat raw and rather undercooked. Interestingly, the meat’s texture felt strikingly similar to calamari rather than the chicken we were used to. The breading was slightly uneven with some clumps of flour. Despite these inconsistencies, the dish had a definite kick, with every bite of the chewy chicken delivering a piquant pop.
Stewed pork rib noodles (7.16/10)
Hand-pulled noodles—and their many varieties—originated in China thousands of years ago. In Chinese culture, noodles are eaten for longevity and good health on many holidays and important celebrations. These symbolic noodles were then combined with broth to form the noodle soup we tasted today.
Our next dish was freshly made hand-pulled noodles swimming in a flavorful slow-cooked pork bone broth with short ribs, soy sauce, fresh cilantro, scallion, and bok choy. As customers were able to personalize the noodle size from the six unique options, we selected medium round noodles. Some of us did not enjoy the large amounts of fat present in the dish, but this can most likely be chalked up to individual preference rather than an issue with the meat itself. While the flavoring of the pork was excellent and added to the overall flavor of the broth, the texture was slightly off, as it could have been far more tender. We would recommend this dish to anyone looking for a hearty, sizzling warm meal. The addition of vegetables, including bok choy, added both some color and textural contrast. And, it was apparent that the noodles themselves were handmade and fresh.
Vegetable fried noodles (8.38/10)
Fried noodles, also known as chow mein, originated in the Guangdong province of China. In this dish, noodles and vegetables are coated in a tasty mixture of soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, and sugar. Proteins like chicken and tofu are optional additions, but our version stuck with the basics: noodles and vegetables.
We loved the abundance and variety of vegetables in our noodle dish. They were cooked perfectly, and we appreciated how they managed to stay crispy and fresh, even when coated in the flavorful sauce. While the dish was delicious in its original state, the addition of chili oil enhanced its savory taste and is a must if you want to take the noodles’ flavor to the next level. The large, flat noodles were the perfect thickness but were too long to eat easily. Taking a share of the noodles was definitely a complicated process: we struggled to get a hold of the oily noodles with our chopsticks and had to dig through the pile to unearth the end of a single noodle. Even considering these struggles, this flavorful dish was our favorite out of everything we tried.
Fried sesame balls (7.13/10)
A traditional Chinese dessert, fried sesame balls have been enjoyed for over a thousand years. These sweet pockets of goodness consist of a glutinous rice flour pastry stuffed with a variety of different fillings. The golden globes are covered in sesame seeds, hence the name, and are filled with red beans, mung beans, taro, and more!
The warm sesame balls were the perfect amount of sweet to contrast the savoriness of our meal. The chewy pastry was up to par and the dish’s presentation was pleasing. Unfortunately, the bean paste inside did not match the quality of its outer casing. Dry, bland, and cold, we were all disappointed with the filling. It did not taste fresh, and we even ventured to guess that it was old and stale.
Overall, we would recommend Ox 9 Lanzhou Handpulled Noodles for a casual and affordable meal. We enjoyed the personalizable variety of noodle options, quick service, and the dedication to the craftsmanship in every handmade dish.
